The Trip to Black Sea 1998

Black Sea, Chapter C

Note: At the bottom of this webpage there are links to 3 maps that show in detail the route of “Faneromeni”.

June 19, 98 Departure Amasra with final destination Istanbul at 06:00, weather relatively good. The crew was Kostas Damianides and Argos, of course. Hüseyin and Nouchan Coban remained in Amasra. We arrived without incident at the harbor of Zonguldak (the ancient Sandraki - Σανδράκη) at 11:15 and after 40 nM.

Our first stop on our return was the harbor of the city of Zonguldak.
Black Sea, Zonguldak, Turkey, June 1998.     (Courtesy Costas Damianides)

We headed for the old section of the harbor and moored, on a second tier, alongside a Turkish tugboat named Meltem. After that we went ashore to explore the town.

“Faneromeni” moored in the harbor of Zonguldak.
Black Sea, Zonguldak, Turkey, June 1998.    (Courtesy Costas Damianides)

We strolled along the old harbor that for us was particularly interesting because of the multitude of wooden boats. We then walked towards the town and we ate at a restaurant which had typical Turkish fare.

Another view of the harbor of Zonguldak with its typical wooden boats.
Black Sea, Zonguldak, Turkey, June 1998.     (Courtesy Costas Damianides)

Another view of the harbor of Zonguldak.
Black Sea, Zonguldak, Turkey, June 1998.     (Courtesy Costas Damianides)

After our tour of the city we returned to the caïque. The plan for the next day was to depart early in the morning.

June 20, 98 By 05:30 we were already outside the harbor of Zonguldak. The sky, as usual for that region, was cloudy and, while the wind was weak, the sea had large waves. Despite these relatively less than pleasant conditions, we were steadfast in our course. After a few hours the waves started to weaken. So we did make good progress. Finally, after covering 78 nM, we arrived in Kefken Liman (Karpia - Καρπεία in Greek) at 15:40. The village-harbor Kefken Liman is opposite the small island Kefken Adasi (Thinia - Θυνία in Greek) where we had anchored on June 15 while heading for Amasra.

The harbor was packed. It was full of large fishing boats. But the ever-hospitable Turkish fishermen immediately mobilized and moored us alongside their caïques, on the eighth tier! And, as if this display of hospitality was not enough, they invited us on the caïque next to us for dinner. They were cooking fish soup and fried fish that they had just caught. With great pleasure we accepted their kind invitation and so enjoyed the wonderful fish soup and the unforgettable kalkan, a typical Black Sea fish.

“Faneromeni” moored alongside the hospitable typical Turkish fishing boats.
Black Sea, Kefken Liman,Turkey, June 1998.    ( Courtesy Costas Damianides)

After this affirmation of Greco-Turkish friendship, two or three of the fishermen’s boys, with great bashfulness, asked us if they could visit our, for them, exotic caïque. And with great pleasure we gave them a guided tour of “Faneromeni”.

However, the caïque was soon full of kids who were not to be persuaded to disembark. We tried to explain that we started very early in the morning and that we had travelled all day and that we now wanted to rest. Nothing doing, they made as if they did not understand and would not budge. At some point I went inside to take a shower. While I was covered with soapsuds, darkness descended. I looked at the port window and to my surprise I saw a small head that had come all the way in, staring at me with great curiosity. I immediately jumped out, full of suds, and, trying to control my temper with difficulty, I attempted to give them to understand that they had surpassed the limit. Indeed, they seemed to understand and the older boys began to urge the little ones that it was time to leave. So finally we regained our peace of mind.

June 21, 98 Early in the morning the fishing caïques, one after the other, untied and left to go fishing. So we too decided that we should depart since we were already moving to let out the fishing boats. By 04:15 we had departed. It was lovely sight: the night was still dark, the navigation lights were on, and in the company of the Turkish caïques we were heading out to sea!

The weather was better than yesterday’s, so we were moving with ease. By 08:20 were were already in the familiar (from our previous visit) harbor of Şile (Χηλή in Greek), having covered 32 nM from Kefken Liman. Here again we were welcomed by our friends the fishers of Şile whom we had met when we were there but a few days ago. It is a very good feeling to be in a foreign land and be welcomed by local friends.

“Faneromeni’s” last stopover before leaving the Black Sea was again the town of Şile by the eastern entrance of the Bosphorus.
Black Sea, Turkey, June 1998.     (Courtesy Costas Damianides)

We fell asleep right away since we had hardly slept the previous night. In the evening we walked around the village, exchanging greetings with the friendly fishermen, and then we returned aboard to prepare for tomorrow’s passage.

June 22, 98 Our departure for Istanbul was at 06:15. The weather was good, just a light breeze and small waves. And so, without any incident, we arrived after a few hours to the eastern entrance of the Bosphorus.

Our return from the Black Sea. The lighthouse at the Eastern entrance of the Bosphorus
Turkey, June 1998.          (Courtesy Costas Damianides)

After a short while we entered the Bosphorus Strait and we were on our final approach for our destination: Istanbul.

“Faneromeni” is transiting the Bosphorus Strait on a western heading.
Turkey, June 1998.          (Courtesy Costas Damianides)

I had decided not to return this time to the Ataköy Marina in Istanbul where I had previously stayed but to try a different anchorage so that I could visit another district. I had already investigated the possibilities and I had settled on Tarabya (Θεραπειά in Greek). This location has certain advantages. It is cove-harbor located on the European bank of the Bosphorus and it is fairly secure. It is an old suburb of Istanbul, previously inhabited by a fair number of Greeks. Today only a few remain. Tarabya is only 20 km by car from Istanbul, an easy distance for me using the small motor bike that I have on board for land expeditions.

Of course, it was not easy to anchor in Tarabya because the cove is crowded by boats on permanent moorings. But my friend Hüseyin Coban had already made arrangements for us to use a mooring belonging to a boat that was away. This way we were guaranteed a secure place for “Faneromeni”.

Well on our way into the strait we encountered a large tanker. With pleasure we noticed that she was Greek, the Marina M registered in Piraeus. Of course we exchanged horn greetings!

It is with pride and joy that Greek mariners encounter ships from home when they are abroad, especially in distant seas. I have travelled in many countries with different boats and, because the Greek merchant fleet is the largest in the world, in almost every sea I have met Greek ships and have felt these emotions many times.

With pride we encountered a Greek tanker, the Marina M registered in Piraeus, and exchanged greeting horn blasts!!!
Bosphorus, Turkey, June 1998.          (Courtesy Costas Damianides)

After this pleasant encounter we continued towards our destination. We arrived on Tarabya at 10:05 having covered 30 nM from Sile. Hüseyin’s people were expecting us and quickly tied “Faneromeni” to a secure off-shore mooring. They told us that they were the crew of a nearby boat and were at our disposal if we needed anything.

We were moored close to the replica of Golden Hinde, the ship of the famous pirate Sir Francis Drake. She can be seen on the far left of the photograph.

“Faneromeni” moored in the friendly cove of Tarabya.
Bosphorus, Turkey, June 1998.           (Courtesy Costas Damianides)

We took Argos ashore with the dinghy so that he could explore this new place. As soon as we landed we were met and welcomed by three Istanbul Greeks who live in Tarabya. When they saw “Faneromeni” with her large Greek flag they realized that we too must be Greeks. We talked with them for a while and they gave us details, with great pleasure, about this region. Also they told us that they will be more then glad to assist us for whatever we may need.

After that encounter, Costas and I loaded the motor bike on the dinghy and took it ashore so that we could move freely on land.

June 23, 98 Today Costas flew to Athens and so I was left by myself with Argos. I rode the motor bike to Istanbul to sightsee and to take my camera to the Nikon dealership for a checkup because it had developed a problem. I easily found the dealership’s address. There a polite gentleman, who seemed well versed technically, received the camera and told me that he would check it over. I was to come back tomorrow.

I then had a very good camera, Nikon FA, that I had bought in New York. I had taken a large number of photographs of many sights during the trip with it.

After I returned to Tarabya, I took Argos ashore for his constitutional. As we were landing from the dinghy I was approached by a gentleman, an Istanbul Greek, who, after introducing himself, explained that he was the owner of the fish taverna Garage (Garaj in Turkish) and invited me for dinner. I accepted his invitation, and in the evening I had a very good dinner, with, among other things, a very tasty Kalkani (a Black Sea fish). The proprietor sat with me during the meal and we had a very nice conversation. Of course, he absolutely refused any payment! Garage is one of the better known fish tavernas by the seaside of Tarabya. I am sorry that I do not recall the name of this very polite gentleman.

June 24, 98 I rode the motor bike back to Istanbul to check on the camera. The technician, with whom I spoke the day before, informed me that unfortunately the built-in exposure meter had failed and was beyond repair. I cannot describe my disappointment. My disappointment was even greater when, at the end of the trip, I gave all the films, and there were many, for development. They told me that all of them were burned and not a single photograph could be recovered.

For this reason I was forced to use here only the photographs taken by my brother Vasilis E. Riginos during the Lesvos-Instanbul leg and the photographs taken and kindly provided by Costas A. Damianides during the Istanbul-Black Sea-Instanbul leg. There are no photographs to illustrate the rest of this trip.

After I returned to Tarabya I met again the owner of the Garage restaurant who invited me for a “consolation cup” of coffee. After that I went to visit the church of Saint Paraskevi that he had recommended.

June 25, 98 This morning was dedicated to resupplying of diesel fuel, water, and washing down the boat. In the afternoon I bought provisions and took the motor bike back on board. This way I was ready for tomorrow’s scheduled departure.

June 26, 98 Argos and I departed from Tarabya at 12:50 heading for the island of Halki (Heybeliada). Other than the usual problems of the Bosphorus, caused by the fact that most vessels completely ignore all the rules of navigation, there were no other difficulties. The weather was good and despite being singlehanded I arrived in Çam Liman, Halki, at 15:40 and after 21 nM.

During our last stop here in Halki, when we visited the Theological School and mentioned that we had come to the island with a caïque from Çan Liman (Πιτυούς), they asked us if we had come up to the School via the path. We replied that no, we had gone with the dinghy to the main port and from there we walked up the hill. They told us that, if we were to visit the School again, we can just walk up the path leading directly to the School from Çan Liman. They added further that it is an easy path and it is much shorter.

Remembering this advice, I decided to re-visit the School following the recommended path. I landed with the dinghy on the beach and started off on the path. After walking uphill for over an hour I realized that I must have taken the wrong path. In the meantime, I had not seen a soul along the way to ask directions. What was I to do? I reasoned that this path must lead to somewhere and I would eventually meet someone to ask for directions. I was getting tired and dusk was falling. Finally, after an exhausting walk, I came to a paved road. After a while I met a couple who with some difficulty led to me to understand that I was way off and it would be best if I first go to the main port and then climb up to the School. I thought to myself that I must be a great sinner to have such a trial. By good luck, however, a short while later a one-horse carriage went by. I stopped it and explained where I wanted to go. Very quickly it deposited me by the School’s gate. But the gate was shut. I rang the bell and from a small window at the gate someone on the inside explained that the School is considered a monastery and no one is allowed to enter after sunset. This was a terrible disappointment after so much effort. I could not accept it. Fortunately, the porter, although I perceived that he was a Turk, spoke good Greek. I described to him all my travails to come here from Çan Liman and I added that the carriage had already left and I declared that I was too exhausted to return on foot and that I would just lie down and sleep in front of the gate! He replied that the rule is very strict and there was nothing that he could do but at any rate he will go and ask the Abbot. Shortly after that I was inside the School.

I was warmly met by two monks from the Monastery of Saint Dionysos of Mount Athos. They were the brothers Chariton and Nikolaos. Nikolaos is also an hagiographer. When I mentioned to them that years ago when I first visited Mount Athos I had gone to their Monastery, they were very pleased. I asked them if I could go to the Church of Ayia Triada (Holly Trinity) to pay my devotions and light a candle. This I did. After that they took me to the office of the Abbot, Apostolos, Bishop of Agathonikae. He welcomed me very warmly and listened with great interest to my adventures to reach the School. After we conversed for a while, he himself gave me a guided tour of the School. We visited everything and ended at the School’s renowned library on the ground floor. The book titles, many of which are rare manuscripts, were already in a computer database. The whole School is amazing but deserted. This saddened me…

As is well known, the Halki Theological School no longer operates.

The School closed in 1971 because the Turkish government prohibited by law the operation of private institutions of higher learning. From the website of the Ecumenical Patriarchate.

This issue has had international repercussions and many diplomatic efforts from the US and Greece are underway to convince the Turkish government to allow the School to operate once more.

After the tour of the School was over, the Bishop Apostolos, invited me to dinner. The dining room was most imposing but plain and severe. We sat at one side of a table for twenty, just the four of us: the Abbot, brothers Chariton and Nikolaos, and I. They were fasting. The food consisted of boiled eggplant and zucchini along with wine and excellent bread. I do not like at all eggplant and zucchini and despite my hunger I was eating only the bread. The Abbot, without saying anything to me, called the Turkish waiter and told him something in Turkish. I did not understand it, but shortly the waiter came back with two fried eggs, the best that I have ever eaten! The Bishop is a gifted person and has a rare personality. He is intelligent, well educated, and very sweet. I was very impressed by him. I thought that it was a wise choice on the part of the Patriarch to assign Bishop Apostolos to such a critical position. During the dinner, which lasted almost two hours, we first talked about the trip of “Faneromeni” and then about philosophy and religion. They very delicately indicated to me their sorrow at the abandonment of Halki… At the end of the dinner I felt very pleased and fortunate that the Abbot and Bishop of Agathonikae, Apostolos, honored me with his hospitality and company. I will never forget that special evening!

June 27, 98 I departed from Halki at 05:35 heading for the Kapidag Peninsula (Κυζικηνή Χερσόνησος ή Αρκτόνησος in Greek) on the Asian coast. Fortunately the weather was good, given that I had to cover the considerable distance sailing solo, with the exception of Argos. Eventually, after 69 nM from Halki, we arrived in İlhanköy (Χαράκι in Greek) at 14:45.

During the early 20th century and before the Asia Minor Disaster of 1921, the population of the hamlet was about 1,100 to 1,300. The inhabitants were exclusively Greek Orthodox and spoke Greek. Encyclopedia of the Hellenic World.


The caïque’s name “Faneromeni” is associated with that region in Kapidag:

NAME

The name of Faneromeni reminds us of unforgettable places and takes us back in time. On the holy earth of Asia Minor, at the foot of Mt. Dindymos, a few kilometers from Cyzicus, around the 12th century AD.

There, as we are informed by tradition, an icon of the Holy and Reverend Virgin Mary was discovered in the bushes on the site of the temple of the ancient goddess Cybele. The citizens of Cyzicus named the icon Faneromeni (the Revealed).

At the location where the icon was found they established the Monastery of “Mary the Revealed (Faneromeni).” The icon was kept there until 1922 when the inhabitants of Cyzicus were forced to abandon their ancestral home and move to another country.

On their departure they carried with them, first among their most valuable possessions, the Holy Icon of Faneromeni.

On their way to Greece they stopped in Constantinople. There, after the Ecumenical Patriarchate was informed about the Icon, the priests took possession of it and placed it the Patriarchate Church of Saint George, where it is today. Holy bishopric of Halkis

When it was burned by fire the icon was moved and since then it is kept in the left nave of the Church of Saint George in the Patriarchate.

June 28, 98 I departed from Ilhanköy at 13:50 with a nice calm sea. Across from Ilhanköy in the Sea of Marmara, and not far, there is the island of Paşalimanı (Αλώνη in Greek). It belongs to the Marmara Island group. After a short and pleasant passage of 6 nM I arrived on the island at 14:35. I anchored off in the NW cove where the hamlet of Paşalimanı is located. When I went ashore with the dinghy I was impressed by the hospitality of the people who had, of course, seen “Faneromeni” anchored in front of them with her large Greek flag. They all wanted to treat me. I was particularly impressed by a 15 year old boy who, speaking in English, told me: “I am glad to have met you because you are the first Greek whom I have met and until now I thought that the Greeks are bad people!”

June 29, 98 We departed Paşalimanı at 05:25 heading for the city/harbor of Gelibolu on the European coast, not exactly where the historic battle took place (which I had visited with my brother on June 3). During the passage the weather was good for about half way. Then the wind strengthened but it did not cause any problems except for spray. After 44 nM we arrived in the harbor of Gelibolu (Καλλίπολις in Greek) at 11:00. I had some difficulty maneuvering “Faneromeni” in the harbor because the wind was strong and the harbor small. Also it gets very shallow so that you cannot get too close to the quay and I was all by myself without any other help and “Faneromeni” is a very difficult boat to maneuver.

June 30, 98 Departure for Çanakkale at 06:30, back to the Asian coast. The weather was better than the previous day. The route is familiar now since I had come this way again when I transited the Dardanelles Strait on the way to Istanbul. After I passed Lapseki (Λάμψακος in Greek) and then Sestos (Σηστός in Greek) and Abydus (Άβυδος in Greek) the straits turned left and then I was on final approach for Çanakkale. I arrived at the Çanakkale (Τσανάκκαλε in Greek) marina at 09:00 after 18 nM. The marina was familiar: Ali at his post welcomed me as an old friend. Also, on the quay, I was welcomed by my Swedish friend and his wife, whose sailboat was a few slips away. I had met them few years ago with their beautiful Hallberg Rassy 35 sailboat in Myrina, Limnos. I had already seen them during the trip north to Istanbul and had spent a nice evening with them. They were now marooned here because they were awaiting the arrival of a vital engine part that had been delayed.

July 1 98 The day began with filling the caïque’s water tanks and an overall washdown in preparation for the arrival of guests.

After all these tasks were completed, I said to myself, “It is time to rest.” But not even five minutes went by and friends from Athens arrived via Istanbul. There were Panayiotis Kanellakis, George Vernicos, and Maria Ntaliani. They were to travel with “Faneromeni”. Together with them was a Turkish friend of Panayiotis but she was not going to travel with us.

Maria, who is a journalist, later wrote an interesting article in the Sunday issue of the Greek daily To Vima dated November 1, 1998, and titled From the Aegean to the Black Sea where she describes “Faneromeni’s” trip to the Black Sea.

Maria Ntaliani, Panayiotis Kanellakis,and his Turkish friend.
Çanakkale, Turkey, July 1998.     (Courtesy Maria Ntaliani)

July 2 98 This day was dedicated to tourism. Panayiotis and George had flown to Istanbul the day before and rented a car to drive to Çanakkale. So now there was a car to be used for land expeditions.

Recently Maria described to me an event that happened during their drive to Çanakkale from Istanbul:

“Panayiotis drove, in his inimitable style, from Istanbul to Çanakkale. Passengers were George and I, who had arrived from by air to Istanbul, and a Turkish friend of Panayiotis whose name unfortunately I do not recall… During a long but narrow straight stretch of the road, without a service lane, with rolling hills reminding me of a Tuscan landscape, he stepped on the gas. Suddenly, while reaching the top of a gentle hill, we saw out of nowhere a police patrol car which stopped us for exceeding the speed limit! The Turkish friend and Panayiotis tried to say something when I intervened (pretending naivete, I must say) and, as politely as I could, asked the officer if he would not mind having his picture taken with me since I had never met a Turkish policeman etc. THE TRICK SUCCEEDED, and we were spared the ticket after exchanging for the photo…”

Panayiotis Kanellakis and his Turkish friend talking with the police officer.
Çanakkale, Turkey, July 1998.      (Courtesy Maria Ntaliani)

In the afternoon we did all the necessary provision shopping.

July 3 98 We departed at 07:35 heading for the island of Imvros. The weather in the Dardanelles Strait was good. There were no incidents near the strait’s exit/entrance--quite different from June 3 when we were entering with my brother Vasilis…

Maria Ntaliani and “Faneromeni’s” skipper.
Turkey, July 1998.                     (Courtesy Maria Ntaliani)

After we exited the strait into the Aegean, the weather freshened but there nothing more serious happened than that the freshly-washed “Faneromeni” was now full of salt. Finally we arrived in the harbor of Kuzu Liman (Ayios Kyrikos – Άγιος Κήρυκος in Greek) on the island of Imroz or Gökçeada (Ίμβρος - Imvros in Greek) at 11:20 after covering 30 nM from Çanakkale. The harbor was empty: only one other boat, a yacht with a Turkish flag.

Maria Ntaliani and “Faneromeni’s” skipper in the harbor of Ayios Kyrikos.
Imvros Island,Turkey, July 1998.                 (Courtesy Maria Ntaliani)

The Harbor Master arrived immediately, he was polite, friendly, but diligent. After carefully examining the boat’s papers he spotted a serious anomaly. We had not entered Turkey. That was true, because we had officially exited Turkey the day before in Çanakkale because Çanakkale is a port of entry/exit while Imvros is not. Of course, when we were checking out of Turkey we had declared that we planning to visit Imvros tomorrow when we would be officially out of Turkey. The officials in Çanakkale told us that would not be a problem. But now it was a problem… The Harbor Master insisted that we must return to Çanakkale and re-enter the country before we could legally visit his island! We explained that, if we officially re-entered Turkey at Çanakkale and visited Imvros, then in order to exit Turkey we would have to return to Çanakkale for a second time! And we would have to do this for a one-day visit to Imvros since we were planning to depart following day for the island of Limnos in Greece. In the end we told him, unequivocally, that if he insisted we would depart immediately for Limnos! I think this last argument made him change his mind…

Of course, when he came on board the caïque for his inspection he immediately received a small welcome gift. Perhaps this had some influence. After the problem was behind us, he asked if he could come back in the evening with his family so that they too could see this curious greek craft. His family had come to Imvros from Ankara for their summer vacation. Indeed he did come back in the evening with his family. After we had finished with the Harbor Master, a gentleman arrived and asked, from ashore, if he could speak to us. I stepped ashore and he said to me, in Greek, “Welcome to our island, I was expecting you.” Full of surprise I asked him how he knew about our arrival. He replied that he is Chrisostomos, Bishop of Myra, and he was informed about our impending visit by the Abbot of Halki Apostolos, Bishop of Agathonikae.

It is true that during my visit at Halki the Abbot at dinner mentioned Bishop Chrisostomos of Myra, who comes from Imvros. He also mentioned that Bishop Chrisostomos was actually there at this time. The Abbot also told me that if I needed anything to contact Chrisostomos and to be sure to go and meet him. I had forgotten this, and what’s more, the gentleman with whom I was talking did not wear an ecclesiastical robe, as Greek clerics always do. I never suspected that he was Bishop Chrisostomos. I invited him to come aboard “Faneromeni” and he accepted with pleasure. The rest of the company met him and we all had a very pleasant conversation. He was very warm and friendly. Bishop Chrisostomos briefed us on various issues about the island and in the end we had a much better picture of things concerning Imvros. During this conversation Panayiotis asked how it was that while a bishop he did not wear a robe but was dressed in civilian clothes. He answered that in Turkey the Orthodox priests and bishops, as well as all the clerics of any religion, are allowed to wear ecclesiastical gowns only while officiating in a temple of their creed. Only the Patriarch has the privilege of wearing his gown in public. Upon departing, Bishop Chrisostomos invited us to his village, Agridia (Αγρίδια), where a special function was being held. In the meantime, we hired a taxi with a Greek driver who literally drove us around the island and gave as a wonderful guided tour.

Panayiotis Kanelakis, Maria Ntaliani, and the skipper with a puppy.
Imvros Island,Turkey, July 1998.            (Courtesy Maria Ntaliani)

George Vernicos and the skipper in front of the old Saint Marina church with the inscription “It was restored with funds provided by Xenophon Gregoriou 1949”.
Imvros Island,Turkey, July 1998.                   (Courtesy Maria Ntaliani)

Among other places, we visited the village of Ayii Theodori (‘Αγιοι Θεόδωροι and Zeytinli in Turkish). With 70 inhabitants, it apparently has the highest Greek population of all the villages on the island. This is the birthplace of the Patriarch Bartholomew. We rested there, in an old café, and had a traditional Turkish coffee. When we asked about the house that the Patriarch grew up in and where it was located, they pointed across the street to an old two-story traditional house undergoing restoration and said:
“Here it is.”

An elderly Greek couple in an old village café in Imvros. The lady is pulverizing coffee beans. She will then prepare the coffee over charcoal.
Imvros Island,Turkey, July 1998.                  (Courtesy Maria Ntaliani)

After our tour we went to Agridia where Bishop Chrisostomos had invited us. This is the village with perhaps the second largest Greek population in Imvros. The Bishop met us and took us to the Cultural Center where the function was being held. There were many children of all ages. The Bishop then gave us a tour of the village, and finally we ended up in the taverna of Barba-Yiorgis. The food was very good and the loudspeaker played Greek music exclusively: folk, rembetika, Theodorakis, Hadjidakis, etc. There was dancing, singing, and a lot of good cheer. We sat there for hours having a good time singing along with a most convivial company. Such conviviality and authenticity you almost never meet in Greece anymore! That night is engraved in my memory even now after so many years.

July 4, 98 Despite previous night’s revels, we cast off at 05:40 and departed Ayios Kyrikos, Imvros, heading for the island of Limnos. The weather was good and we had a pleasant passage. At 10:20 after 37 nM we arrived at the Keros reef. This reef, also known as Charos, is 5-6 nautical miles east of Limnos. We anchored and went spear-fishing. We did not fish for very long because the wind started to gradually freshen. Nonetheless, we did catch something…

We departed from the reef at 11:50. The wind strengthened some more but without problem. Finally we arrived on the Kondias bay on Limnos. Proceeding for about 2 nM we anchored off at the head of the bay in the safe anchorage of Diapori at 15:50 and after 30 nM from Keros.

July 5, 98 We departed from Diapori for Myrina at 07:45. Although it was early in the morning, the wind was substantial. But because the distance was short we kept going. We arrived in Myrina, Limnos’ main port, at 09:10 after 10 nM from Diapori.

July 6, 98 Today my friends Panayiotis Kanellakis, George Vernicos, and Maria Ntaliani left for Athens. Once again I was left alone with just Argos for company. After my friends’ departure I re-supplied “Faneromeni” with fuel and water. The I thoroughly cleaned and washed down the boat. Finally, I replenished the provisions. Now the caïque was ready to depart.

July 7, 98 Today the wind was blowing fitfully and discouraged any thoughts about departing. I went exploring the island with the motor bike.

July 8 to July 10, 98 During these days the wind was very strong with craft warnings etc. No sweat, it was time to relax and tour with the motor bike. Also in Myrina there was a large group of my friends who grew up on the island and come every summer for vacation. They were more than eager to hear the stories from my Black Sea trip.

After Limnos I started on my journey home. This lasted for quite a while and I visited many Greek islands. It was an unforgettable summer!

I believe that it would be tiresome for the reader to read all the details of this return trip to “Faneromeni’s” home port: Marina 4 in Glyfada. So from this point on I will only briefly mention the places that I visited.

The total distance the “Faneromeni” traveled from Amasra to Myrina, Limnos was 450 nM and 69 engine hours. The trip lasted for 22 days.

To see detailed maps of the return trip click: Part A.

July 11, 98 Departure from Myrina at 07:00, arrival at Ayios Efstratios at 10:55, distance 21 nM.

July 12, 98 Departure from Ayios Efstratios at 05:00, arrival at Votsi (Alonisos island) at 12:55, distance 58 nM.

July 18, 98 Departure from Votsi at 10:10, arrival at the harbor of  Skiathos (Skiathos island) at 13:15, distance 15 nM.

July 19, 98 Departure from Skiathos at 08:30, arrival at Agnontas (Skopelos island) at 10:05, distance 12 nM.

July 22, 98 Departure from Agnontas at 15:25, arrival at Votsi (Alonisos island) at 16:55, distance 9 nM.

July 25, 98 Departure from Votsi at 19:05, arrival at Steni Valla (Alonisos island) at 19:40, distance 4 nM.

July 28, 98 Departure from Steni Valla at 08:15, arrival at Ayios Fokas (Skyros island) at 12:50, distance 31 nM.

July 29, 98 Departure from Ayios Fokas at 07:20, arrival at Potami, Platanistou Beech (Evia island) at 13:50, distance 48 nM.

July 29, 98 Departure from Potami at 15:50, arrival at Vourkari (Kea island) at 19:05, distance 24 nM.

August 1, 98 Departure from Vourkari at 12:30, arrival at Ayios Emilianos (Kea island) at 13:35, distance 8 nM.

August 5, 98 Departure from Ayios Emilianos at 07:25, arrival at Poros Harbor (Poros island) at 12:55, distance 40 nM.

August 8, 98 Departure from Poros Harbor at 13:15, arrival at Skintos Cove (Dokos island) at 15:30, distance 15 nM.

August 10, 98 Departure from Skintos Cove at 13:45, arrival at Kapari Cove (Ermioni) at 14:45, distance 7 nM.

August 11, 98 Departure from Kapari Cove at 08:10, arrival at Porto Heli (Gulf of Argolis) at 10:30, distance 14 nM.

August 12, 98 Departure from Porto Heli at 12:15, arrival at Old Harbor (Spetses island) at 12:45, distance 5 nM.

August 14, 98 Departure from Old Harbor at 13:45, arrival at Kostoula (Gulf of Argolis) at 14:10, distance 2 nM.

August 14, 98 Departure from Kostoula at 18:15, arrival at Porto Heli (Gulf of Argolis) at 18:40, distance 4 nM.

August 16, 98 Departure from Porto Heli at 13:10, arrival at Zoyeryia (Spetses island) at 13:40, distance 4 nM.

August 16, 98 Departure from Zoyeryia at 17:50, arrival at Porto Heli (Gulf of Argolis) at 18:20, distance 4 nM.

August 17, 98 Departure from Porto Heli at 15:15, arrival at Zoyeryia (Spetses island) at 15:45, distance 4 nM.

August 17, 98 Departure from Zoyeryia at 19:40, arrival at Porto Heli (Gulf of Argolis) at 20:05, distance 4 nM.

August 19, 98 Departure from Porto Heli at 09:15, arrival at Poulithra (Gulf of Argolis) at 11:50, distance 20 nM.

August 21, 98 Departure from Poulithra at 07:30, arrival at Porto Heli (Gulf of Argolis) at 09:45, distance 17 nM.

August 22, 98 Departure from Porto Heli at 12:55, arrival at Zoyeryia (Spetses island) at 13:15, distance 4 nM.

August 23, 98 Departure from Zoyeryia at 11:05, arrival at Porto Heli Cove (Gulf of Argolis) at 11:35, distance 4 nM.

August 26, 98 Departure from Porto Heli Cove at 09:45, arrival at Porto Heli Harbor (Gulf of Argolis) at 10:45, distance 1 nM.

August 27, 98 Departure from Porto Heli Harbor at 10:00, arrival at Porto Heli Cove (Gulf of Argolis) at 10:15, distance 1 nM.

August 27, 98 Departure from Porto Heli Cove at 13:45, arrival at Korakonisia (Gulf of Argolis) at 14:30, distance 6 nM.

August 27, 98 Departure from Korakonisia at 18:00, arrival at Porto Heli Cove (Gulf of Argolis) at 18:55, distance 7 nM.

The total distance the “Faneromeni” traveled from Myrina, Limnos to her home port Marina 4, Glyfada was 511 nM and 104 engine hours. The trip lasted for 68 days.

The grand total of the whole journey, beginning to end, was 1,652 nM and 275 engine hours. The whole trip lasted for 90 days.

The return route of “Faneromeni’s” from Amasra to Marina 4 in Glyfada. For more detail maps of the return journey click Google B, Google C